Fiat-Bravo.info

Lowering by only changing the springs is not a perfect solution. In depend of the usage and what you you are able/wish to spent it can be a fungible solution (but never a good solution).

You reduce the pitch of spring if you change only the springs. This means it is (nearly) compareable with a fully loaden car. The original dampers are dipped permanently by the distance of the lowering!
Subjectively you maybe have a better suspension with lowering springs because the car will not roll so much (on the longitudinal axis) but on bad roads, bumps and at load changes the suspension is objective very bad.
If you drive mainly in the city it is negligible/not so important. On high speed (track, highway) and/or in turns on bad roads it makes a very big difference.

A Eibach ProKit is good for a rest of comfort and "driveability" but of course it looks not so good like a Eibach Sportline. If you want to lower your Bravo by ~35 or more mm, it is better to take also new dampers with shorter piston rods or a coilover suspension (a very good one is a Bilstein B14 for ca 700,- Euro > much more expensive but also a very big difference which makes really sense if your Bravo is not only a car for the city).
The H&R springs have usually a harder setup than Eibach ProKit (I never drove the H&R in a Bravo, only in a lot of other Fiat and Alfa) on that score usually. Both (Eibach and H&R) have good springs.

Regards
André

Hi,

can I put Eibach springs on current shocks on my Bravo (1.4 tjet 120), or should I buy B6 or B8 shocks?

which springs??? 30/30 ??? How many km??

Eibach.

I have 100000 km, Iam going to change shocks as well but I wanna know if I can buy Bilstein B4 which are around 90 euros or I have to buy B6 or B8 (170 euros) for Eibach springs?

How is the car behaving on ordinary shock and stiff Eibach springs? Isn't it a too big load for the shock?

There is a big technology and setup difference between B4 and B6/B8.
The question is where you drive, how you drive and what you expect from the suspension.
A Bilstein B6 is much more better than a B4 but if you drive only in the city it make not really sense to spent the money for a B6. If you drive on highways, pass roads, tracks etc., it make really sense.

Please read my previous post.
It is not possible to give you a (good) advice if you do not write what you expect.

Regards
André

Hi,

I know its difference between B4 and B6, and also B8. . .I expect to stiff my car, lower it a little, I will drive it on open roads, in the city, highways and also on saome track day in Monza or Grobnik. . .

I know its best to put B8 with those Eibach but Iam afraid that maybe with those set up it will be to low. . .

Maybe to put B12 with blue springs. . .

I know that B4 are like original shocks, B6 are sporty but no lower so B8 are the best solution. . .or am I wrong?

Only the springs modify the high, not really the dampers.

The difference between B6 and B8 is the piston rod "lenght" (not the setup or something what will change the high or make it sporty or not sporty). A shorten piston rod is needed to keep the prestressing (preload) of the spring, thats all.

For the Eibach ProKit I recommend the B6 but you also can take the B8.
From ca 30-35mm lowering (and more) you can use B8. Up to 40mm lowering you can use B6.

B12 not available with the blue springs anymore (maybe last stock items). They are now all with the red Eibach springs (Eibach produced the springs also in the past).

But why do you recommend B6 when B8 is shorter so isn't it better for shorter spring shorter shock?

I know that all shock can put up with shorter springs up to 30 mm but. . .here in Croatia we have roads that isn't so good. . .would I have to be more careful on holes and bumps on roads with shorter spring but normal shocks?

Will I preload shorter spring with B6?

Sorry if I have stupid questions

The ProKit will lower your car by 30mm, the B6 match at best for this lowering, so this is the reason why I recommend them.
The B8 are good for 40mm and more (they will work also from 30mm but it make no sense). The B6/B8 shocks are identically (also in the lenght of the piston rod), the B8 have only a different end stop so that the preload will fit to lowering springs. If they don't have that, the springs will not fit and make noise.

Zitat

would I have to be more careful on holes and bumps on roads with shorter spring but normal shocks?

You ever have to drive more careful with a lowered car
The shock doesn't make a difference in how carefully you have to drive (by 30mm lowering).
30mm are ridable with normal shocks like B4/B6 (take a ruler and check out how less 30mm = 3cm are). It make no sense to mount the B8 for the 30mm.

What if the price is almost the same for B6 and B8?

So your advice is B6?

The price of B6/B8 is nearly the same, we sell them with 5,- Euro difference.

My advice is not related to the price but to the state of technology.

So b6 with those eibach?

If you want a very good suspension (IMHO the best): Yes
If you want to save money, you also can take the Bilstein B4 with the Eibach.

We sell the B6/ProKit for 500,- Euro net in Germany and the B4/ProKit for 300,- Euro.
IMHO It's worth it to spent the 200,- Euro for a much more better suspension.

So b8 is unnessesary?

Sorry for so much stupid questiones

Zitat

Original von Fiat Sportiva
It make no sense to mount the B8 for the 30mm.

Ok, tnx for advice.

B6/ProKit is the best choice

I finally bought B8 Bilstein and Eibach Pro springs. . .

Now I have problem, it looks great and the ride is great, but go over police bumps I can hear some kind of thump noise. . .sound like the spring rings touch each other when its pressed. . .its annoying.

What can it be?